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One of the joys of ownership might be an afternoon spent at the hangar, sipping cold ones and shining up the airplane. But the effort might not be enough to protect the paint and other surfaces from long-term damage. Neglected surfaces may be too much to handle.
That’s why hiring a professional detailing service can create a starting point—rejuvenating the finish while making routine post-flight cleaning easier. Detailing work is pricey, but might be paid during resale.
In this article, we’ll look at professional detailing—which is really a form of maintenance—and explain why all providers are not created equally.
Even for hangared aircraft, the surface of airframe components take a beating. It’s bad enough that ultra- violet rays damage the paint while parked, but the real damage might happen in flight—even at low altitudes. Icing, rain and engine exhaust blow-by create added stress for paint and bare aluminum accessories.
When it comes to aircraft polish, forget everything you know about waxing the family sedan. Carnauba, the main ingredient in many automotive waxes, just isn’t as effective as the sealants used in aviation- grade treatments. Plus, aircraft paint care is far more involved. Whether performed all at once or spread out over time, there are numerous steps involved in a professional treatment.
The first and basic step might be a thorough wet wash with an aircraft-appropriate soap—although there’s valid arguments against wet washing, given the presence of fluoride and other additives in local water supplies. The concern here is the potential for damage to landing gear component seals, corrosion on electrical connectors, and injecting water into pitot and static systems. There’s also an increased EPA involvement with airport wash pits and a movement to stop harmful degreasing agents from flowing into airport drains. For these reasons, many professional detailers are switching to dry wash products, which we’ll cover in a future article.
Owners with sticker shock naturally attempt the detailing project on their own. But before you tackle a worn paint finish, understand that the process isn’t going to be quick and easy. Some finishes may be too far gone to gain any improvement.
First, make an honest evaluation of the paints condition. If it’s chalky, peeling or down to the metal, it’s likely time for a new paint job. But in many cases, skilled detailers can bring some finishes back to life. Still, rejuvenating an aircraft’s finish is more than a wash and wax-job. Without the proper tools and process, amateurs end up doing more harm than good. For starters, don’t rely on polish or wax to shine the paint finish because you’ll first need to prepare and rejuventate the surface. This process creates the brilliant shine that owners are looking for.
In most cases, you’ll need a machine buffer to accomplish the compounding process. This removes old wax, paint oxidation and contaminants. Depending on how involved the decontamination process was, a second wash or rinse may be necessary.
Once the project is finished, it’s up to you to maintain it. Set your flying schedule so you have time to wipe off the bugs, grease and exhaust contamination after every flight. Remember, preventive paint maintenance is always cheaper than replacement. Many detailers recommend a wash and polish twice a year, after bringing the paint back to life. Climate considerations, of course, can affect this maintenance interval.
But paint isn’t the only upkeep. There’s also brightwork—which addresses the bare aluminum accessories on the airframe, to include some exhaust stacks, leading edges and propeller spinners. Deicing boots require care, too. It’s important to periodically remove debris and old sealant from their surface. Not only will the boots look shiny, protecting them from the elements could extend their useful life while helping them shed more ice.
We talked with several professional aircraft detailing specialists, including Stephen Clark with Immaculate Flight. Clark is the marketing manager at Immaculate’s Seattle location, which works with Boeing, major fractional jet operators and private and business aircraft owners. Immaculate has over 80 locations scattered around the country.
Clark warned about the pitfalls of hiring amateur detailers to care for your aircraft. These may be one-man operators working out of the back of a truck, students making spare money to pay for flying lessons or automotive detailers trying to move up in the industry.
“Our team of detail professionals are highly trained. They don’t just start detailing aircraft their first day on the job. Moreover, detailers that work in the marine and automotive industry are often limited by knowledge, tools and the products that are required for working on an aircrafts finish,“ said Clark. While we agree, it’s important to note that many talented detailers are one-person operations. They have lower overhead which could benefit your checkbook.
On the other hand, Clark stressed that you want to work with a company that has plenty of insurance. According to him, one of the biggest problems in the detailing industry relates to the value of newer aircraft, noting that some detailers don’t carry enough liability insurance.
Robert Pavone, at principle at Down To The Last Detail in Chicago, views his around-the-clock detailing service as an important way for owners to protect their asset.
“In the 20 years of running my business, I’ve never had a customer question the value of our professional detailing service. A quality detail job offers pride in ownership, while protecting the aircraft’s value. It’s also an important maintenance event for preventing corrosion,” said Pavone.
Mike Pride, the owner of Leading Edge Aviation in Dallas, Texas, had convincing reasons for developing a relationship with an aircraft cleaning company.
“Completely and properly detailing an aircraft is extremely hard work that can take one person up to two full days to accomplish. Our process is extensive. All surfaces are first compounded with rotary polishers and wool pads to remove exterior surface oxidation and fallout. A specially designed aircraft paint sealant is then applied to protect the paint from the elements,” said Pride. This treatment typically lasts for roughly one year, depending on flying time and conditions. He recommends quarterly dry washes, since most dry wash products have a little bit of sealant in them, which helps bolster the paint protection in between annual treatments.
As for using automotive wax, Pride advises not to bother.
“Due to the friction that can build up during flight, an automotive wax will probably last one or two flights. Additionally, automotive waxes may contain carnauba and silicones, which can cause a buildup of static electricity and possibly cause interference with flight instruments.”
When it comes to the interior, Leading Edge recommends treating all carpets with a fiber protectant, which in effect seals the fibers and makes it more stain resistant.
You’ll find detailing services available at many FBO’s, which can be a good and cheaper alternative to a detailing company, especially if you base the aircraft in the servicing FBOs hangar. But we suggest inquiring about the experience level of their detailing staff.
Maria Tari, who manages multiple Atlantic Aviation locations in Connecticut, told us that her detailers are trained from other detailers in the business. “Our lead tech was trained by a pro detailer and he, in turn, trains select members of our staff,” said Tari. As a large FBO, Atlantic has liability insurance.
Atlantic’s pricing structure varies, depending on the size of the aircraft and the condition of the paint. For example, the wet washing and polishing service for a Baron runs $375, not including brightwork, interior cleaning and boot treatment. Full treatment could yield a price nearing $700. We got ballpark quotes of around $1000, from full-time detailers, for the same treatments.
Speaking of treatment, every detailer we spoke with stressed the importance of carefully treating the finish on composite aircraft. The strong chemicals in some cleansing agents can be harsh on life-limited composite structures. Similarly, you don’t want an inexperienced detailer to douse the screens of your flight displays with chemical cleaners. The pros know better, and if they don’t, they’d better have good insurance.
A version of this article appeared in the April 2013 issue of Aviation Consumer magazine.
The NTSB this week released its latest safety statistics, and the rate for general aviation aircraft showed little improvement. Earl Weener of the NTSB, who is himself an active GA pilot, has been working to help focus FAA efforts toward reducing GA accidents, and he's hopeful that programs now underway will have substantial effects over the next few years. He talks with AVweb's Mary Grady about what some of the problems are and explains the strategies being developed to address them.
When I operate LOP, my EGTs are noticeably higher than when I operate ROP. Won't those higher EGTs harm my engine?
Indeed, if you run 20° LOP instead of 100° ROP, your EGTs will be higher -- 80°F higher, to be exact. This is nothing to worry about. At cruise power, your engine is not capable of producing EGTs high enough to harm anything. When I cruise my T310R LOP (which is the only way I fly it these days), I generally see EGTs in the mid-1500°F range. Given the extraordinary longevity and reliability I've obtained from my engines, they're clearly quite content with those EGTs.
If I operate at peak EGT or LOP, don't I risk burning my exhaust valves?
This question belies a common misconception that burned exhaust valves are caused by high EGTs. This is not correct. Burned exhaust valves are caused by valve-guide wear and valve-stem wear, and the best way to keep that from happening is (1) to keep CHTs down, and (2) to run a lean mixture to minimize build-up of combustion byproducts on the valve stem. The leaner you operate (while keeping CHTs at prudent levels), the happier your exhaust valves will be.
Why do you recommend keeping CHTs at or below 380°F, while TCM sets its CHT red line at 460°F and Lycoming sets it at 500°F? Aren't you being excessively conservative?
Both TCM and Lycoming specify CHT limits (460°F and 500°F, respectively) that should be considered emergency limits, not operational limits. Allowing your CHT to get anywhere close to those values for significant periods of time will most likely result in premature exhaust-valve problems and increased incidence of cylinder-head fatigue cracking. I do not like to see CHT above about 400°F, which is the temperature at which the aluminum alloy from which your cylinder head is made loses one-half its tensile strength. (The strength decreases rapidly as the temperature rises above 400°F.) For legacy aircraft, I recommend a maximum target CHT of about 380°F just to provide a little extra cushion, and consider any CHT above 400°F to be grounds for "doing something right now" to get it down. (For modern designs like the Cirrus and Diamond, reduce those CHTs by 30°F or so.) The higher the power setting, the further away from 50°F ROP you need to stay to keep CHT at or below the target. As power decreases, this "zone to avoid" around 50°F ROP becomes narrower and narrower. When power gets down to about 60 percent, the avoidance zone disappears and you can run the mixture pretty much anywhere you please without overtemping or overstressing anything. (The APS folks refer to this zone to avoid as "the red box.") In my view, the best way to manage our piston engines is the same way we manage turbine engines: by limiting temperature, specifically by CHT (which is the best proxy we have for ICP). For best engine longevity, set the mixture somewhere that produces CHTs no higher than 380°F (or 350°F for modern designs). This can be very ROP, or slightly LOP, or even right at peak if the power is low enough. What's important is that you limit CHTs to a maximum target value. How you accomplish that is less important from the standpoint of longevity.
My engine monitor uses a spark-plug gasket probe on cylinder number two because the threaded boss on that cylinder is already occupied by the factory CHT probe. Is that why my number two CHT always seems to run hot?
Yes it is. A spark plug gasket probe generally results in a CHT reading that's about 40°F hotter than a normal, threaded probe on the same cylinder. To avoid this problem, you can purchase a "piggyback" probe for your engine monitor that will screw into the threaded boss on the cylinder, and that will allow the factory probe to be piggy-backed on top of it. The piggy back probe sometimes reads slightly lower than the regular probe, but it's a whole lot closer than the spark-plug gasket probe.
All this LOP stuff may be fine for you fuel-injected guys, but I fly a Cessna 182 with a carbureted O-470 engine. I've been told that LOP operation is a bad idea for carbureted engines. Do you agree?
LOP operation is fine for any engine that can run smoothly in that configuration. However, LOP operation requires fairly even mixture distribution among the cylinders. That's sometimes difficult to achieve in a carbureted engine, particularly the O-470 engine in a Cessna 182 (which is famous for its poor mixture distribution). There are a couple of techniques you can use to improve the mixture distribution of your carbureted engine and thereby enable the engine to be leaned more aggressively before it starts to run rough. One is to use a touch of carb heat during cruise (particularly in low OATs). The other is to avoid full-throttle operation, backing off the throttle until you can just see the slightest drop in MP. The warm induction air and the slightly cocked throttle plate both improve fuel atomization and mixture distribution in your engine, and will enable you to lean more aggressively before the engine starts running rough. You should feel quite comfortable experimenting with these techniques to see if you are able to operate LOP without creating uncomfortable engine roughness. Contrary to popular belief, you can't hurt anything by operating LOP. If you get your engine to run smoothly LOP, I suggest you try it (and you'll probably like it). If you can't, then you'll have to be content with ROP operation.
My Cessna 182 has a Texas Skyways O-520 conversion. I also have an Electronics International UBG-16 engine monitor and FP-5 fuel flow system. Texas Skyways is dead-set against LOP operations. They recommend operation ROP up to a maximum of 1825°F of CHT plus EGT combined. For my engine, this normally equates to 50°F ROP. How would you recommend I operate this engine?
The notion of using CHT+EGT as a leaning target has absolutely no scientific basis behind it. Electronics International does recommend this technique it in its UBG-16 users manual, but it's poor advice in my opinion. CHT is the most important parameter for cylinder longevity, because it correlates with ICP. I disregard EGT altogether when leaning, although EGT is enormously useful for troubleshooting. If you use EGT+CHT as a leaning reference (as Electronics International suggests), the EGT overwhelms the CHT in the sum and you lose the most important part of the information (which is CHT). Don't get me wrong: The Electronics International UBG-16 is an excellent engine monitor, and E.I.'s technical support is top-notch. But the UBG-16 user's manual ... not so much, in my opinion. I suggest you keep CHTs at or below 380°F (or 350°F for modern designs). There is no limit for EGT. My cylinders generally see EGTs in the high 1500s and they obviously haven't caused a longevity problem. My cylinders and valves use exactly the same metallurgy as yours.
You caution against excessive CHTs, but is it possible for CHTs to be too cold?
Yes, it's possible to run CHTs so cold that the tetraethyl lead (TEL) in the 100LL is not properly scavenged and starts creating metallic lead deposits in the combustion chamber and lead-fouling the spark plugs. However, in most engines, it takes verycool CHTs (down in the mid-200s °F or lower) for an extended period of time (hours) for this to cause a problem. We usually see this problem in airplanes used for fish spotting, pipeline patrol, search and rescue, and other "loiter-mode" operations. Unless you fly at very low power settings (e.g., 50 percent) and/or at very high altitudes and very cold OATs (e.g., FL240 and -30°C), it's not usually a problem.
I fly a Cessna 172 with no CHT or EGT or fuel flow instrumentation. How should I lean my engine?
After stabilizing in cruise and reducing power to the desired cruise RPM, slowly lean the mixture until you feel the onset of perceptible engine roughness. Then slowly richen just to the point that the roughness goes away. With your limited instrumentation, that's the best you can do ... and it's not a bad technique. Having said that, I would strongly recommend that you consider installing a digital engine monitor in your airplane. To my way of thinking, having an engine monitor is even more important in a four-cylinder, single-engine airplane than it is in six-cylinder single or a twin. If you fly a four-cylinder single and you lose a cylinder in flight, you don't have much left. See you next month.
At AirVenture 2013, Hilton Software introduced the latest version of its popular WingX Pro 7 navigation app. In this AVWeb Product Minute, Hilton Goldstein gives us a tour of the new features.
Dual Electronics brought the new SkyPro XGPS160 Bluetooth GPS to AirVenture 2013 at Oshkosh. In this AVweb Product Minute, Dual's Greg Lukins describes the product.
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