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Carl Marbach |
"The West Coast", particularly if you are from east
of the Mississippi, usually means California. We should not forget
that the "left" coast also includes Oregon and Washington.
The diversity of terrain and climate that can be found in and
among these three states never ceases to amaze me as I fly over
deserts, forests, mountains and finally the beaches and ocean
of the coast itself. Stop as few as 25 to 50 miles from the coast
and you can be in an arid region populated by foothill sized mountains.
Traveling from there through tall redwood forests, hilly wine
vineyards and winding roads you finally reach the coast. This
diversion, short of your destination, might be necessary due to
the coastal fog and stratus which can last all day during parts
of the year. Always have a good alternate in mind when flying
here.
A good place for pilots wishing to feel the Northern West Coast
is the Tu Tu' Tun Lodge on the Rogue River in Gold Beach, Oregon.
The Lodge's name comes from the Tu Tu' Tun Indians, a subtribe
of the Rogue Indians who had an encampment along the Rogue River
where the Lodge sits today. "Tunne" meant "people";
"Tu Tu Tunne" were the "people close to the river."
The Lodge
Tu Tu' Tun Lodge, located seven miles up the north side of the
Rogue River, was originally built in 1970 and totally refurbished
in 1994 to reflect the open-beamed, heavy timbered style of the
Northwest. Each pleasant and neat room has a 12 foot sliding door
opening onto a private patio or balcony, overlooking the Rogue
River.
Sitting outside a watching the river and all the wildlife
is a relaxing way to end or start your day. We were fortunate
enough to see a bald eagle flying right past our room over the
river. It was quite a sight.
The inn is run by your hosts Laurie and Dirk Van Zante who have
been owners since 1980 when they bought it from Dirk's father.
When you check in, Laurie or Dirk look at you and say,
"Carl........Helen......"
and commit your names to their wonderful memory. From then on
you are on first name basis with them. Count on Dirk or Laurie
and their staff to help you plan your days, make you a picnic
lunch or help in any other way possible. Fortunately for you they
are experts at running the Lodge and they show it in their service
and friendly attention.
The Food
Meals are something to look forward to. Breakfast usually consists
of some fresh fruit, fresh baked muffins and bread followed by
a choice of some hot wholesome food like natural grain oatmeal,
or crusted home baked French toast. All meals are served family
style in the large windowed dining room.
Dinner starts with wine
and hors d'oeuvres at 6:30 followed by a great meal. Fresh salmon,
mesquite grilled turkey breast are just two of the meals we had
and each was delicious. Meeting other travelers at the dinner
table is always interesting, if things get slow just mention that
you flew your own plane into Gold Beach airport and the discussion
will turn interesting.
After dinner there is an open fire on the
patio outside where you can just sit and think about what you
did that day and what you are going to do the next.
The River
The Rogue River offers plenty to do when you visit. If you come
in Spring or Fall, fishing is the main attraction. The Spring
season includes the Rouge River run of Chinook Salmon which range
in size from 15 to 40 pounds. The peak season is from mid April
through May. In the Fall Steelhead and Chinook Salmon can be found
ranging from 1/2 to 15 pounds for the Steelhead and 2 to 7 pounds
for the Jack male Chinook Salmon. Guides are available for the
Chetco and Coquille rivers, along with the Rogue, and can provide
all the necessary equipment including a boat with a heater and
top.
In the summer months the Rogue can be explored with trips in jet
boats holding 15 to 25 passengers. This river is one of a limited
number of rivers to receive a Wild and Scenic status. The 104
mile white water jet boat trip makes a whole day of fun on the
river. We had never gone UP white water rapids before. The guides
are very knowledgeable and point out lots of wildlife and vegetation
along the way. Lunch is provided at the Paradise lodge 52 miles
up river. Jet boats stop at the Tu Tu' Tun private dock each mooring
at about 8:00 a.m. for the trip.
The Rogue Valley and Gold Beach
The Rogue River valley is surrounded by hills and forest which
you can explore by foot or in a car. There are several self guided
nature walks through the old growth forests on which you can learn
a lot about the ecology of the Pacific Northwest. Along the coast
route 101 offers scenic beauty at every turn. Many of the state
parks along the way offer hiking trails that lead along ridges
high above the Pacific Ocean, or wind down to the rocks along
the shoreline.
The West Coast beaches of Oregon are studded with
large rocks both on shore and offshore giving a depth to the scene
that you can't get looking out at the East's Atlantic Ocean. Walking
along the beach with only the wind and the ocean tickling your
senses is a great way to unwind and let the stress of everyday
living out.
The Airport
Gold Beach Municipal (4S1) has one 3,200'x75' asphalt runway
with pilot-controlled
lighting at night. It's adequate for my Aerostar if I pay
attention to what I'm doing. There is no instrument approach.
So flying in there is easy if the weather cooperates.
While no weather is available
for Gold Beach, if you call Ron Armstrong, Director of operations
of the Port of Gold Beach, at (503) 247-6269 he will look outside
and tell you what it looks like. Parking is two bucks a night and fuel
is available.
Be sure to tell Tu Tu' Tun you're flying in and they will leave
the old Volvo at the airport for you. The high security at the
airport means that they will leave the keys under the right front
floor mat of the car. It has worked every time for us.
If the weather is uncooperative, it may be possible to shoot the
approach at Crescent City, California and
then cancel and fly just offshore north to Gold
Beach. The same can be done in the other direction from North
Bay, Oregon. If the weather is too bad to run up (or down) the
coast, just rent a car and drive — the scenery is great and it
is only 1-1.5 hours to Gold beach. If the coastal weather is too
bad, or if your instrument skills or ratings aren't up to it,
stop in Grants Pass, Oregon and make the longer but no less spectacular
drive from there to Tu Tu' Tun.
Tu Tu' Tun can be reached at 96550 North Bank Rogue, Gold Beach
Oregon 97444, telephone (503) 247-6664 or FAX (503) 247-0672. Tell Dirk and
Laurie that Carl and Helen said hello!
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