The $2,500 Hamburger: The Point at Saranac Lake, New York

Need to score big points with your significant other? Looking for a fly-in experience beyond the usual $100 hamburger...like maybe a $2,500 hamburger? Formerly the Rockefellers' camp in the Adirondacks, The Point is now a remarkable, ultra-deluxe romantic hideaway and the nation's number-one-rated resort in the Zagat Survey. For a mere $1,000 a night, you get outstanding service, all-you- can-eat superb gourmet food, an open bar, and the ultimate sybaritic wilderness experience. If you need to put a dent in those stock market gains, that year-end bonus, or your kids' college fund, The Point in Saranac Lake, New York, is definitely the place.

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(For most of us, this is about as close as we’llever get to The Point! —Ed.)

Cynthia, my otherwise perfect bride, hates to fly.  Alwayson the lookout for a pretext to lure her into the air, I stumbled across The Point whileflipping pages in the Relais et Chteaux hotel book.  Only an hour’s flightfrom our home base at While Plains, N.Y. (HPN) — I tell my family that everything is"an hour" away — it seemed perfect.  To make certain I had her hooked,though, I asked our close friends the Harpers if they would consider joining us; I knewshe could back out on me, but she couldn’t back out on them. Reservations weremade five months in advance. On the appointed day, when we arrived at The Point —  two Valiums, one martini and 80 minutes (that’s about an hour, right?) afterdeparture  —  even Cynthia wasn’t disappointed.

The AdirondaksThe Point is inSaranac Lake, New York, in the heart of Adirondack Mountain State Park — at six millionacres, the largest park in the United States. Saranac Lake is a nearly continuous waterway— from Upper Saranac Lake to Lake Flower in the village of Saranac Lake — that providesbeautiful mountain views, with soaring bald eagles overhead and an almost ancient,pristine quality. No wonder the Robber Barons all chose this area to build their summercamps. The Point was originally the Rockefeller’s "camp." 

Airport InfoAccessto the area is obtained through Adirondack Regional Airport (SLK), a full-service IFRairport (on the day of our arrival, we shot an ILS approach to minimums in snow showersand fog) located 100 nm. north of Albany, New York. The airport is attended (see below forhours) but uncontrolled. ZBW provides air-traffic-control services in this area.

The area is readily reachable from New York, Boston, Philadelphiaand Montreal. There is even scheduled air service on USAir from EWR, ALB and BTV.

By prearrangement, The Point sent their van for us, and it (andtheir very helpful driver) were waiting for us on the tarmac as we taxied up to the FBO.The driver unloaded our baggage, and we were off. (Hertz cars are available at SLK forthose who plan on venturing forth from The Point, chances are that you won’t want to.)  The drive to The Point is 17 miles and about 25 minutes.

Arrival at The Point is via a long, unpaved access road, with arough-hewn log gate. There are no signs for The Point. Visitors are not welcome ("Weregret that all drop-ins must be turned away at the gate," their brochureadmonishes). Since all arrangements have been made prior to arrival, there is no check-in,and we were taken directly to our rooms. There are no predetermined check-in/check-outtimes at The Point.

The BoathouseAndwhat rooms they were!  Of log architecture, they feature stone fireplaces, marblebathrooms and sumptuous beds. Each room is decorated to within an inch of its life, and isequipped with a library. Robes, slippers, hair dryers and irons are kept in every room. Noamenity has been overlooked.  If it’s not there, all you have to do is ask. There areno phones in guest rooms, no television and no newspapers.

Boathouse Interior Wearrived shortly before dinner on Friday. After a short stroll around and a nap, it wastime to dress for dinner. Jackets and ties are de rigeur for all evenings,and black tie is suggested, but not required, on Wednesday and Saturday evenings.Virtually everyone succumbs to this mandate. The Great Hall, where meals are served, iselegantly decorated, and it’s appropriate that the guests are suitably attired.

Dining RoomThecuisine at The Point is incredible. The executive chef and kitchen staff were trainedunder Albert Roux, three-star Michelin type. Individual dietary requirements areaccommodated.  Meals are served en famille: no menu, family-style tables ofeight. The supply of food seems endless. After only one meal, I can hear my coronaryarteries snapping shut. After one feeble attempt to have a "light" continentalbreakfast in our room, I capitulated to utter gluttony. Some guests come for the foodalone. It’s worth it.

MohawkOn Saturday, someexercise was certainly appropriate. Cynthia, the Harpers and I all went for a long walk inthe woods, and then a long walk out of the property. There are no formal activities. Witha maximum of 22 guests, The Point has the luxury of individualizing most everything.Fishing rods and tackle, canoes, rowboats, water-skiing and swimming are all available.Adirondack guides can be arranged for hiking, fishing or just about any other outdooractivity. The staff will go to great lengths to assure that you have every possibleopportunity to have an enjoyable experience.

Guests should be prepared with lots of clothes, sincejacket and tie, black tie and informal attire are all needed. including casual clothes andboots for walking and Topsiders or sneakers. Outdoor clothing that can be added andremoved in layers is a good idea. Nights are cold, year-round.Interior

So, what’s wrong with the place?  Depending on your outlook,you may find en famille dining with other guests to be tiresome and the illusionof being in a private home to be strained and disingenuous. Guests are self-selected onthe basis of their ability to afford the accommodations, not on the basis of theiraffability as dinner companions. If you’re in love and you bring your own company, so muchthe better.

Key Information

Saranac LakeRoom rates are for two people,including unlimited use of sports equipment and facilities, three meals, unlimited wine,liquor and liqueurs from self-service bars open 24 hours a day. There is a minimum stay of2 nights on weekends, 3 nights over holiday weekends. Prepayment in full is expected atthe time of reservation. The hotel quotes rates with service charges and taxes.  Realroom rates range from $953 (including 15% service charge and 7% NYS sales tax) to $1,261(for the boathouse, shown above right) per night. You can have the entire property for for$11,997 a night. Go for it. You’re worth it. Needless to say, your platinum card iswelcome.

The Point, HCR #1 Box 65, Saranac Lake, New York 12983, (800) 255-3530, (518)891-5674, fax (518) 891-1152.

Adirondack Airport, (518) 891-4600 8:00 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. daily.

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